The Thakhek Loop is one of the most underrated adventures in Southeast Asia.

Laos is such a pain to get to that I can’t understand the people who’ll just come, see Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng, then proceed to pick up their bags and go. No doubt Vang Vieng is pretty awesome, but I’m still not sure it’s worth it for all the travel.

Any traveler to Laos should venture on south. The Thakhek loop is incredible, and there’s the Pakse Loop further down if you want to give that a try as well.

But we’re not here to discuss the Pakse Loop. We’re here to talk about the towering cliffs, limestone formations, caves and vibrant rice fields that highlight the 450 kilometer Thakhek Loop.

In this guide, I’ll be discussing everything you need to know about the Thakhek Loop. The best routes, stops, and general tips on how to have the best possible experience.

When to Do the Thakhek Loop

Like most destinations in Southeast Asia, there’s (for the most part) a right time and a wrong time to visit the Thakhek Loop.

The best time of year to do the Thakhek Loop is between mid-October and mid-April, which is (generally speaking) the dry season. I add that caveat so you don’t get too pissed with me if it starts raining buckets in February.

It shouldn’t. I think.

To get even more specific, I would say that November and March are the sweet spot. The reason being that it can get a little chilly in the winter months. Nothing crazy, but you’ll feel it while riding the bike.

You can just take a jacket, of course. That generally works pretty well.

Best Routes for the Thakhek Loop

So which direction should you do the Thakhek Loop?

Clockwise & counter-clockwise are actually not your only options. Go figure.

Things are complicated by a long stretch of highway during the loop that you may want to avoid.

I have a whole post dedicated just to which direction to choose, but for now I’ll give you a quick summary.

Clockwise & Counter-clockwise

If you go clockwise, you’ll be starting with the left-hand section of the loop (see map). Which is over 2 hours of straight, uninterrupted highway. Not much scenery, just lots of dust and trucks shooting past you with a death wish for all in their path.

But there are positives. Namely that once you finish that boring first day, everything is up from there. It’s the advice I give for the Mae Hong Son Loop in Thailand among others, which is to get the crappy stuff out of the way quickly.

If you go counter-clockwise, it’s the opposite.

Counter-clockwise is the most popular way to do the loop. Almost everybody I met was going in this direction, so if you’re solo and meeting people is a factor, going counter-clockwise is a wise choice.

But of course, there’s no denying that you’re in for a pretty shitty last day.

Alternative Routes (who needs the highway?)

Going clockwise or counter-clockwise is for plebeians.

Why take the highway when you can simply turn around and take everything in but from the opposite direction?

Going this way doesn’t even extend the time it takes to do the loop so substantially, only adding around two hours to your total trip.

This is what I judged to be the best way of doing the loop- and it’s what I ended up doing.

Nevertheless, it’ll add a night to your trip (unless you really rush things), so keep that in mind. As you’ll see, there’s a lot to do on the loop so running out of things shouldn’t be a concern.

You do have one more option, which is probably the best option provided you’re willing to throw down some extra cash (800k to 1 million kip, which is close to $50 USD).

You can take your bike with you on a boat through the Kong Lor Cave. This means you get to avoid the highway, and won’t have to extend the length of the loop.

You can see it on the map above, the shortcut is signaled by a dotted line.

Motorbike Tips for the Thakhek Loop

Where should you rent a motorbike?

There are a bunch of motorbike rental stores in Thakhek.

The best- and most popular- rental shop is called Wang Wang Motor Rental.

My bike cost 120k kip ($5.5 USD) per day, and they were also very helpful in booking a bus out of Thakhek when I finished the loop.

What kind of motorbike is best for the loop?

The roads aren’t too steep at any point, so this doesn’t matter as it would for loops like the Mae Hong Son in Northern Thailand or Ha Giang in Northern Vietnam.

I would just go with the cheapest. Which is a 110 or 125cc semi automatic bike.

Automatics are slightly more expensive but the obvious choice if you don’t ride semi. 125cc will do.

Best Stops on the Thakhek Loop

I’ll be detailing the stops assuming you’re doing the loop counter-clockwise. If this isn’t the case, I guess you’ll just have to read this backwards.

My deepest of apologies.

Xieng Liap Cave

Xieng Liap Cave is located just 20 minutes or so outside of Thakhek.

It’s not just a cave, there’s a lot going on here. Rope courses, a zip-line too I think. I wasn’t paying too much attention, but it looked like a good time and something to check out.

You arrive at a parking area and pay 10k kip ($0.50 USD). Paying a small amount for parking is a common theme in Laos, if you haven’t noticed yet. They like making a quick buck.

You then walk across a narrow, swaying bridge to a stand where you pay another 10k for entrance to the cave.

The entrance to the cave is, shall we say- cavernous. And wet. Make sure to bring a bathing suit. Unless you try really hard, you’ll be going for a swim– even at the peak of dry season.

It’s a beautiful experience though. The cave is generally really quiet, and the sounds of water hitting the rocks and echoing all around you are awesome. It’s a big area, and you can spend a good half hour exploring.

You can cross over to the other side and there’s an exit to an area I’ll be speaking about in the next section.

I’ve read in a couple blogs that they hiked in a loop through the cave for an hour, and I searched every nook and cranny of that thing but to this day have no idea what the hell they were talking about.

Maybe you’ll have more luck?

Green Climbers Home

So I had no idea this existed.

I had swam through to the back exit of the Xieng Liap Cave and found that it opened up to what looked like a massive campgrounds.

This turned out to be a climbing village called Green Climbers Home. Essentially, here you spend a few days learning how to conquer the steep karst cliffs of the region.

I discovered it on my last day of the loop so I didn’t do it myself, but it really looked incredible and I regret it a bit.

If you have time on your hands, it’s definitely a good way to extend the loop.

There’s a separate entrance from the road. Don’t worry, you don’t have to swim through a cave with your bag and bike to get there.

Pha Katai Viewpoint

There’s another cave and a lagoon near Xieng Liap, but I think they’re skippable. The cave is touristy and expensive ($2.5, wild…) and the lagoon is nothing special.

I’d get on the road and drive around an hour to Pha Katai Viewpoint.

As usual, you park and pay your entrance fee. It was 10 or 20k if I recall.

You ascend a metal staircase up the steep karst cliff to the top. It should take 20-30 minutes.

I was quite impressed by the thing. Walking up that staircase, I really can’t fathom how they built that thing. Those cliffs are so steep and sharp and must be incredibly difficult to climb.

Good on you, Laos.

Once you get to the top, the slope flattens and you walk along the top of the cliffs. There are some pretty crazy formations that form in the karst.

Take in the sights and then head back to the world-class Laotian staircase.

River off-roading

This comes shortly after the Pha Katai Viewpoint, maybe five or so minutes down the road.

Most of the stops I mention in this article are not secret, I’ll admit it. There’s a pretty set tourist trail on the Thakhek Loop.

But I can guarantee nobody else is mentioning this spot.

Every once in a while I would turn off the main road in hope of finding a hidden gem- to varying degrees of success.

This was the most successful detour of them all.

A simple turn off the main road and you’re in another world of endless dirt roads around a beautiful river with an incredible mountain backdrop.

This is why I always say to just go off the tourist trail. You never know what you’ll find, and it’s often one of the highlights of the trip.

If you look on the map below, it’s the first left turn after the pin I dropped.

But it should be obvious- once you hit the river a few minutes from the Pha Katai Viewpoint, look for a small dirt road on your left. There should be one on either side of the river.

Song Sa Waterfall

Around 15-20 minutes down the road you’ll cross over a narrow body of water and the dirt road leading to the Song Sa Waterfall will be on your right.

Go down this road for a couple of minutes- and as usual, you’ll come to a small parking lot and pay your 10k kip fee. A brief walk brings you to a set of pools and waterfalls.

Song Sa seemed like more of a local spot, which I appreciated. A lot of young Laotian kids all just playing in the water and having a good time. Occasionally looking at you and saying ‘hello’ while laughing.

By the main pool there’s a large swimming area and several rocks you can jump from. The top one is probably 7-8 meters high. It’s a fun spot.

The water isn’t sparklingly blue and clear like the Cool Pool (we’ll discuss that later), but other than that it’s really beautiful.

Viewpoint after Nam Theun

After staying the night in Nam Theun (more on that later), you’ll set off and drive through a pretty interesting area.

In the somewhat recent past, a dam was built up here and it ended up forming a lake of sorts in what used to be a forest.

As a result, you’ll see a ton of dead tree trunks sticking out of what you thought was just some regular old lake. Odd but kind of cool.

After driving through this area, the road begins to slope downwards into a town. But before you descend, there are several spots where you get some nice views from up high.

I’ve pinpointed a specific spot on the map below that’s a nice spot, but if you go a minute past it there’s a better one. You’ll a small path off the road to the right. Just park by the road (or drive up the path, works too) and you can relax and have a snack with a panoramic view of southern Laos.

Dragon Cave

In around 20 minutes you’ll reach Lak Sao. It’s a good place to grab some lunch before continuing onwards.

Before I talk about Dragon Cave, you should take some detours on the way there from Lak Sao. It’s a beautiful stretch with sheer cliffs on your right and little villages on your left. Take your time.

Dragon Cave is a little more pricey. It costs 50k ($2.5 USD) but that includes the cave, a hike to a viewpoint at the top and a free bottle of water at the end. Talk about a deal.

The cave is short but massive, well-illuminated, and full of some pretty awesome formations.

Once you’re done, exit the cave and take the path to the top of the mountain.

It’s a short 20 minute or so climb and gives you an awesome view at the end.

Cool Pool

30 minutes away from Dragon Cave is the Cool Pool.

This is an awesome spot on a hot day. The water is, as one would perhaps surmise, quite cool. I would go so far as saying it’s cold. But very refreshing.

It’s also incredibly scenic. The pool is small and filled with some of the clearest, bluest waters you’ll see. All at the base of a sheer cliff face which adds to the aesthetic.

The road leading to the pool is incredible on its own. It’s a narrow red dirt road that leads directly towards the mountains with a completely unobstructed view.

Entry to the Cool Pool costs 40k kip ($2 USD).

Tham Nam Non Cave

If you recall from the map at the top, there’s a point in the loop where you take a detour and drive towards the center to visit the Kong Lor Cave.

Some people don’t do this detour, which is the biggest of mistakes. It’s kind of like going to Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower.

As we’ll get to, the Kong Lor Cave is incredible in its own right. But the detour to the cave is filled with the most incredible sights on the entirety of the loop.

You have the trademark Thakhek Loop steep karst cliffs, but they converge closer to the road and get more impressive. And as you drive on, you begin to see the rice fields: vast, swaying in the wind, and the brightest of greens you’ll ever see.

Tham Nam Non Cave is a little-known cave in the same valley as Kong Lor. But don’t confuse little-known with little. Tham Nam Non is believed to stretch 15 kilometers, making it significantly longer than Kong Lor.

That’s a wild length for a cave. And it’s possible it extends even further- Tham Nam Non hasn’t been fully explored yet, as I was told by an American who lives here purely to explore the caves in the region.

I asked the guy if he feels safe crawling through caves all the time. He told me he feels safer underground than he does outside.

Bullshit.

To get to the cave, you’ll turn off the main road to the left towards the cliff face. There should be a sign. Start paying attention after you cross the first wooden bridge. I’m pretty sure the entrance was right after the second bridge, but don’t quote me on it.

Kong Lor Cave

Kong Lor Cave is, without a doubt, the most famous attraction on the loop. Many come on a day trip from Thakhek just to see the cave and then leave town.

Don’t get me wrong, the cave is awesome but to me it was just another amazing part of the loop- I wouldn’t say it was the star of the show.

To get to the cave, you take the main road until you can’t go any further.

Then you go to the ticket office. Entry costs 350k kip ($16 USD) if you’re on your own. With a group it’s 200k ($9 USD). I spotted two French girls buying tickets and decided we were now a group. Sometimes friendship is cheaper.

Wondering why it’s so expensive?

Kong Lor Cave isn’t just any old cave hike. You explore the cave by boat. A tiny, rickety, narrow wooden one to be exact. If you choose to take your motorbike through the cave as I mentioned above, it’s quite the scene when they load it onto these things.

The ride through the cave takes around an hour with a few stops to admire the formations in the cave. There are some areas that are really remarkable.

Once you get through the cave to the other side you’ll have some time to relax. A popular activity is to rent a bicycle and do a small 20 minute loop around the village there. Costs 80k ($3.5 USD) for rental.

Limestone Forest Viewpoint

After your detour towards the Kong Lor Cave, continue on the loop to the Limestone Forest Viewpoint. Even if you decide to double back and skip the highway, it’s worth it to come here before turning back.

You’ll ascend up a mountain for 15 or so minutes and then it’ll be on your left. You can’t miss it.

The viewpoint is a restaurant with panoramic views of the tops of the karst cliffs rolling underneath you. There’s some pretty interesting things to read about how this area formed. Something to do with a limestone layer and another something something layer.

It was interesting in the moment, at least.

I’d come here at sunset and relax and have a drink. You can pay 50k for a short walk that takes you closer to the tops of the cliffs.

There’s also a zip-line and some other activities, but you’ll have to arrive earlier and pay a good chunk of money. I think it was around $60 USD.

Where to Stay on the Thakhek Loop

I was really happy with all of the accommodations on the Loop.

I’m not recommending anything novel for the most part- there are a few choice places where basically everyone goes, and they have really amazing atmospheres.

A great way to wind down after a long day of driving and exploring.

Sabaidee Guesthouse (Nam Theun)

If you’re doing the loop counter-clockwise, this will be your first stop for the night.

Nam Theun is a little village that pops up right after you ascend to what’s called the Nakai Plateau. The village isn’t very big, just a few roads and houses.

One of these is the Sabaidee Guesthouse.

It’s a really cozy place and possibly my favorite accommodation on the loop.

The dorm beds are nothing special but cost 100 or 150k ($4-6 USD) a night, so no complaints. The downstairs has a warm vibe with a bit of a chalet feel.

They’ve also got a bonfire and barbecue each night at 7:30 (small chance it’s 6:30, I won’t lie). It costs 100k ($4.50 USD) but it’s all you can eat. Definitely go for it. Beyond the food, it’s an awesome environment.

There are some nearby guesthouses, so don’t worry if it’s full. I’m sure they’d still let you join for the BBQ.

At sunset time, go back to the main road and continue for a minute until you reach the bridge crossing the reservoir. The sunset from here is magical.

Sanhak Guesthouse (Na Hin)

Na Hin is a town located on the loop located right where the road that takes you to the Kong Lor Cave starts.

Many people will just shoot right to Kong Lor and spend the night there, but I prefer to stay in Na Hin.

The stretch of road to Kong Lor is incredible and you don’t want to be tired for it. Better get a good nights sleep and wake up ready to tackle it in the morning.

And it doesn’t hurt that the Sanhak Guesthouse is an exceptional and comfortable stay.

The dorms cost 120k ($5.50 USD) for the night, and by Laos standard they’re fairly luxurious.

There’s no BBQ, but there’s a rooftop where you can gather with other travelers and order food from the restaurant downstairs.

I loved it so much I ended up staying here twice. Once on the way to Kong Lor, and once on the way back.

You can book in advance here.

Kong Lor

You don’t need to stay near Kong Lor. It can easily be a day trip, and you can spend two nights at the Sanhak Guesthouse.

That being said, there are a lot of possible options.

The nicest seemed to be the Spring River Resort. It’s well off the main road and tucked into nature, with narrow wooden paths winding through trees and little wooden guesthouses.

There’s also a restaurant with a beautiful river view.

It was sold out when I visited, so I’d recommend booking online. Dorm rooms are 180k ($7 USD).

There are plenty of other options near the main road closer to the cave, so don’t worry if you go and it’s sold out.

The Rock Lodge by the Limestone Forest

I don’t usually give luxury options, but this one just looked so cool.

The Rock Lodge is located right by the Limestone Forest, and you get this spacious, modern looking pod to yourself. With an absolutely killer view.

Of course, you pay for the luxury. It’s $32 for a double room. But a great option for a couple.

That does it for my guide of the Thakhek Loop! Just remember to take your time, see as many spots as you can, and explore some others for yourself by venturing off the trodden path!