The route between Chiang Mai and Pai is quite famous.
If you’ve been to either city, you’ve likely seen many small shops flaunting its 762 curves on various shirts, coffee mugs, and incense holders.
Maybe not that last one- although there’s a chance you’ll need one right around curve #463.
I won’t tell you that the main route isn’t scenic or fun, but it’s hard to take in as a driver- your attention is commanded at all times.
It’s a popular tourist road. In other words, it’s full of idiots. Incompetents, over-confidents, and English alike.
This goes along with the van drivers who are paid based off how many times they can go back and forth in a day. I’ll let you imagine how that goes.
Luckily, you have a better option- the newly paved 1349-1265 route, which is equally windy and scenic with a lower death rate to boot.
In this post, I’ll be detailing this route and suggesting the stops you should take.
Let’s get to it.
Alternate Route Overview
The alternate route between Chiang Mai and Pai takes you along route 1349 to 1265, which ultimately leads you to Pai.
The route is stunning, and quiet. You’ll still get to enjoy the curves, just without the vans with a death wish tailing you by 2-3 feet.
The route takes just under 5 hours, which is an hour longer than the main route. But I’ll say that it didn’t even feel close to that long. When you’re focused and constantly winding around turns, the time flies.
It seems obvious, but this route is also great for those driving in the opposite direction- that is, from Pai to Chiang Mai.
That’s actually what I did- it was my last leg of the Mae Hong Son Loop.
Go see some elephants at Elefin Farm and Cafe
I hadn’t done much prior research when I drove this route. Someone I’d met had recommended it to me but hadn’t given many specifics.
So I simply drove until I saw something that peaked my interest. There were several of these moments along the route.
The first of of these moments occurred when I saw an elephant walking across the middle of the road.
He paused and gave me a long look, kinda like a traffic cop deciding whether or not to let me through. Then he must’ve called for backup as another pushed its way through the trees.
Turns out I was right next to an elephant sanctuary, which apparently includes the middle of the road.
I found the entrance and drove into the sanctuary. I didn’t have to pay or anything- I just drove in and the elephants were in a field to my left.
I’m not entirely sure this was allowed, but my curiosity got the better of me.
You can also do it the right way and pay an actual visit to the sanctuary. Otherwise you won’t really get to interact with the elephants unless they’ve set up a traffic stop for you too.
There’s a lot of chatter about how ethical these sanctuaries are. I’m not the best person to ask. The articles I’ve scene on Elefin suggest they’re treated pretty well. As does the fact that, quite evidently, they’re free to wander.
Anyway, if you want to see some elephants, take a quick detour to the Elefin Farm and Cafe.
Go eat some strawberries at Mae Dad Noi Viewpoint
After saying goodbye to the elephants, you’ll have the biggest chunk of the drive.
It’ll take close to two hours to reach our next stop.
But don’t think of it as a waste of two hours. The road here is beautiful and wooded, with turn after turn surrounded by a forest of pine trees.
You’ll start to see the strawberry fields popping up around 10 minutes before you arrive at the viewpoint. Feel free to stop by the side and take in some of the particularly nice views.
There’s a little wooden, roofed structure you’ll see that’s nice to sit in and gaze out at the view. I had some leftover snacks and made a bit of a picnic here.
Afterwards, walk down amongst the strawberries and a wide variety of flowers.
I drove the Mae Hong Son Loop, and over my 10 days this was one of my absolute favorite spots.
The flowers and strawberries were so incredibly vibrant, and the combination of walking through them with the wide expanse of mountains rolling in the distance was special.
I can’t tell you to steal, of course, but say a strawberry falls or perhaps happens to pick itself…
The only issue is that the strawberry season isn’t that long- December to February is prime time.
Stop for lunch in Wat Chan
You’ll have a 45 minute or so drive to Wat Chan.
On this portion of the drive you’ll be winding on perfect, freshly-paved roads through pine trees, and the time will pass quickly.
Once you get to Wat Chan, I’d recommend stopping somewhere for lunch if you’re hungry. It’s as good a spot as any along the route.
It’s definitely possible to stop earlier too, as Wat Chan is a decent ways past the halfway mark. But obviously, you don’t have to follow everything I say to a T.
There isn’t a specific town center or restaurant I’d recommend. It’s more of a strip- just search for restaurants in Google Maps and stop at one that has good ratings and a decent chunk of reviews. Preferably with some written in Thai.
Foolproof plan.
Go broil yourself in the Mueang Paeng Hot Springs
In 35 minutes you’ll arrive at the Mueang Paeng Hot Springs.
Only stop at the Hot Springs if you’re feeling chilly.
I certainly wasn’t. I was absolutely baking, but went to check out the springs just for you guys.
When they say the hot springs are hot, they mean it. The combination of the extreme heat of the day with the steam rising from the springs was hard to bear.
As I mentioned earlier, I did this route from Pai to Chiang Mai, so I arrived at the springs early on- at pretty much the hottest time of day.
It’s more likely that you’ll be stopping by in the evening, and drives in Northern Thailand often get quite chilly later on (especially in dry season).
There were definitely a handful of my evening rides where I was wishing a boiling hot spring was in proximity.
You can’t really swim, but you can walk through the water and soak (or cook) your feet.
So I can imagine how this would actually be a very enjoyable stop. Just skip it if you’re anything but cold.
Head to Pai
After stopping (or not stopping) at the Hot Springs, you’ll have a final 45 minute drive to Pai.
Nothing too crazy to talk about here, but that’s part of my point of the beauty in this route that I’m trying to get across.
The constant flow of quiet, winding roads through untouched Northern Thai nature. It seems unremarkable at any given moment, perhaps, but in its entirety it’s incredibly special.
What to do in Pai, you ask? I’ve got some tips for you, but you’re gonna have to wait for my future post. Until then, this will do. It’s no Bold Passport, but it’s some pretty good stuff.
