I wouldn’t blame you if you never left Paris.
The city has it all. It’s my favorite city in the world, without question. It has charm, it has architecture, it has food, it has history. There’s really only one thing that’s missing.
The sea.
But while Paris isn’t directly on the ocean, it’s not far out of reach at all. All you need is a weekend to spare.
I’ll show you exactly how to do it – the perfect weekend in Normandy, with a coastal escape to Étretat and a stop in the charming city of Rouen on the way back to Paris.
The Weekend Itinerary at a Glance
Here’s how the weekend breaks down.
Friday: Travel from Paris to Le Havre and settle in, with a side-quest to Honfleur if you have time.
Saturday: The main event. A full day in Étretat, walking the cliffs and exploring the town.
Sunday: Head back towards Paris, stopping in Rouen along the way. The train from Le Havre passes right through, so it’s an easy addition.
Getting from Paris to Le Havre
Getting to Le Havre from Paris is very easy.
There are both train and bus options to get to Le Havre. The train is faster, taking around 2 hours, but generally more expensive. The bus is slower (2.5-3 hours), but often cheaper.
If you buy train tickets in advance, they are often under €20. If you get tickets last minute, prices will often be at least doubled. The same is true for buses, although they range from €10-20.
Check for tickets below on Omio.
Note: The links for stays and trains in this post are affiliate links! Please use them when you book. It’s free for you and gives me some cash to spend on something stupid.
Le Havre: Your Base
You’ve got two real options for where to stay this weekend: Le Havre or Étretat itself.
I’d go with Le Havre.
Étretat is beautiful, but it’s tiny, and accommodation there is limited and pricier. Le Havre, on the other hand, is a proper city – cheaper places to stay, and better transport links in every direction.
Note: Try and stay within striking distance of the main train and bus stations. It’ll make your life a lot easier. Center city by the water is nicer, but it’s about a 30 minute walk or 15-20 minute bus ride.
Le Havre also happens to be a great launchpad for one more stop.
If you arrive in Le Havre with time to spare on Friday, don’t just sit around.
Honfleur – one of the most beautiful port towns in Normandy – is only about 30 minutes away. The public bus leaves from the Central Bus Station (Gare Routière) and leaves about once an hour.
The old harbor (Le Vieux Bassin) is absolutely stunning at sunset. Stroll around the port and grab something to eat, before heading back to Le Havre to rest up for tomorrow.
Note: If all this public transportation is too much for you, there are a number of tours that will take you to both Honfleur and Étretat, which you can do on Saturday! See options below – and make sure to select the 4 hour option for the car tour! Otherwise it will be way too rushed.
Getting from Le Havre to Étretat
Don’t waste any time on Saturday morning, and head straight to Étretat.
There are multiple bus options, but the fastest one (#21) leaves from the train station (Gare du Havre).
It runs every hour, at the hour, and costs €1.80, which must be paid in cash.
Don’t bother pre-booking. Just show up at the train station, ideally nice and early so you have time to get your bearings and find the bus without any stress.
The ride will take a little over an hour each way.
The other option is to book a tour from Le Havre, which is obviously more pricey but more efficient and offers different experiences, including a boat ride from Le Havre to Étretat. You can see some options below.
The Étretat Cliff Walk
The Cliff Walk is by far the best thing to do in Étretat. There’s other stuff – which I’ll get into in the next section – but the Cliff Walk is what makes Étretat special.
Head to the beach and head to the left towards the cliffs. That really should be the only directions you need.
You’ll find the most amazing chalk cliffs, falling vertically onto the beaches and turquoise waters below.
The cliffs are full of small caves and arches carved out by waves over thousands of years. It’s truly a one-of-a-kind sort of place.
There are cliffs on both sides of the town, but I would prioritize the ones to the left. Why? I think they’re cooler. But of course, check out both if you have time.
The path up the cliffs to the left goes on for about 45 minutes – 1 hour, depending on your pace. Round trip will be about 1.5-2 hours (total distance 4.3km).
You can see the full route on AllTrails.
What Else to Do in Étretat
Explore town. It’s small but very charming and walkable, perfect for relaxing either before or after the cliff walk. Eat some traditional Norman food at La Flotille or Le Clos Lupin, and find the home of Maurice Leblanc, the author of Arsène Lupin (the French Sherlock Holmes – which gave inspiration for the Netflix show ‘Lupin’ that you should 100% watch).
Go for a swim! My philosophy is that if I’m by the sea, I’m going in. I was here in mid-October and it was chilly and windy, but 100% worth it.
Check out the gardens (Jardins d’Étretat). They’re set on a cliff to the right of town and are super cool, definitely not your ordinary gardens. Everything is perfectly sculpted and immaculate, it’s very satisfying to walk through. They do cost €12 though.
Check out the right-hand cliffs! If you’re already heading up to the gardens, you may as well continue up the cliff to the chapel. If you have the time, continue on the path past the chapel which leads to an incredible view.
Getting from Le Havre to Rouen
Once again, train and bus both work.
The train is sometimes even cheaper than the bus, which makes it a no brainer since it’s 20 minutes faster.
The trains leave from Gare du Havre, while the buses can vary – so make sure you check your specific booking for departure location if you go with the bus.
Check prices below. Expect under €10 for the train if booking in advance, and only slightly more if booking last minute.
A Few Hours in Rouen
Unlike Honfleur and Étretat, Rouen is more of a legit city – it’s actually the capital of Normandy.
After exiting the train, walk south towards the river. It takes about 15 minutes to reach the center of town, which is marked by the famous 14th century horloge (clock tower).
Rouen is famous for its outdoor markets, the largest of which happens on Sundays. How fortunate for you.
The market is spread all over the center city, so it will be virtually impossible to miss. It’s filled with local treats as well as plenty of antiques, clothing, and other cool little trinkets.
The food was all I cared about. Tried to taste a little of everything I could find. I don’t remember too many specifics, but there was this one walnut cake I had that was life-changing. Try to find it!
The market was the main event for me, but I’d recommend also just strolling through the streets, and maybe taking a walking tour (options below). It’s really a very beautiful and charming town.
Getting from Rouen back to Paris
Again, train or bus.
The train is 20 minutes faster (a little over 1 hour) and usually a little more expensive, so once again, it’s up to you.
Check up to the minute prices below.
Practical Tips
A few things worth knowing before you go.
The best time to go is in late spring or summer. The weather’s warmest, the days are long, and the sea is more swimmable. July and August are the busiest, so if you want a balance of good weather and fewer crowds, aim for June or September.
This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go in other seasons. I went in October and had a great time.
Time your cliff walk to avoid the crowds. Étretat gets much busier midday when the tour buses arrive from Paris. Head up to the cliffs early morning or late afternoon instead – you’ll get quieter paths, better light for photos, and just a better atmosphere.
Watch out for the tides. Walking out under the arches at low tide is awesome, but the water comes back in fast, and every year there are accidents. Check the tide times here.
Try to book your trains early, but don’t stress about it if you don’t. You will certainly save money booking in advance, but very rarely do trains fill up to the point where you don’t have a seat left or have to pay an astronomical price if you book late.
Sort out your luggage for Sunday. You don’t want to be dragging a bag around Rouen. Drop it off somewhere with the Bounce App. There are several places near the train station.
