So you’ve been to the Eiffel Tower. The Louvre, Champs-Elysées, Notre Dame. Probably Montmartre, the Latin Quarter, and Le Marais.
Now it’s time to take a step off the tourist path- because there’s tourist Paris, and then there’s real, authentic Paris. And one of the best places to meet authentic Paris comes in the 17th district.
The Batignolles neighborhood remains largely unknown to the vast majority of tourists that pass through the city. Which is likely part of the reason that it has become one of the most trendy areas in Paris for locals.
What makes the Batignolles one of the most trendy areas in Paris?
Paris is my favorite city on earth. The people living in it, on the other hand… let’s just say they’re not the most hospitable bunch. And there’s no doubt that effort is being put in to keep the Batignolles neighborhood under the radar.
Part of me doesn’t blame them. The disadvantage of living in an incredible city is that it’ll be constantly thronged by outsiders who want to experience it. And in every such city, there are certain areas that locals try to keep to themselves, as a means of escape.
In my opinion, you don’t really know a city until you’ve explored these areas.
That’s the main draw to the Batignolles- the authenticity it offers. The small village feel that is hard to find elsewhere in Paris. And there are plenty of other reasons to love it too.
So let’s head over there and ruin the peace for all those self-righteous Parisians.
The Batignolles is one of the trendiest culinary areas in Paris
When I first stumbled upon the Batignolles a year ago, I was already very impressed by the sheer amount and variety of gourmet experiences on hand. Boulangeries, patisseries, cafés and fancy restaurants could be seen at virtually every turn.
I was even more surprised when I recently revisited and saw so many new establishments, many of them well-known names around the city. Think Yann Couvreur, The French Bastards, Poilâne. Clearly, they don’t want to miss out on one of the most trendy areas in Paris.
It’s hard to recommend places because there are so many. My best advice is to just roam the streets, look at window displays and menus and try a lot of different things.
If you would still prefer specific recommendations, I do have a few to share. If you’re looking for a place to sit down, the Batignolles are full of small, quaint little restaurants where Parisians typically gather for lunch or after work. A few great ones are Pignon, Gaston and Les Paresseux.
If you’re looking for something more upscale for a dinner, there’s plenty of options to choose from. I’ve only done window and menu shopping at these restaurants with my limited travelers’ budget, but a good one won’t be hard to find.
My advice is to find one that looks intriguing, do a quick Google search to make sure reviews are good, and go enjoy! Then leave a comment and tell me if you find something special.
For a quick treat, check out The French Bastards for a modern take on classic pastries and Pastelaria Belem for an incredible Portuguese Pastel de Nata (among so many other places that would take too long to list!).
If you want more concrete recommendations, you can check out the official site of the neighborhood as well.
How to get to the Batignolles
The Batignolles neighborhood is located in the 17th district of Paris.
The 2, 3, 13, and 14 metro lines will all bring you to various locations in the neighborhood. There’s no specific starting point so just choose whichever line is most convenient for you.
If you take the 2 or 3, get off at Villiers station. If you take the 13, get off at Brochant. For the 14, Pont Cardinet.
Of course, you can also walk. One of the best tips I can give for Paris is to walk as much as possible- that’s how you learn the city.
But if you’re staying far away, I get it. If that’s the case, something you may want to consider is pairing the Batignolles neighborhood with another area when you make your visit. Montmartre is a good option, being a quick walk away. So is the Saint Lazare neighborhood, another trendy area in Paris.
As an aside- you shouldn’t be staying too far away. The Batignolles are close by to most of my favorite areas in the city to stay in!
How to explore the Batignolles
The Batignolles are divided into two sections by the train tracks emanating from the nearby Gare Saint-Lazare. Take a look at my poorly constructed map below for a visual.
If you take the 2 or 3 metro, you’ll be starting on the west-hand side of the neighborhood, and the opposite for the 13 and 14. But regardless of where you start, you’ll be visiting both sections.
On the east-hand side (right side on the map), you have the main center of the Batignolles, including the town hall. Walk around, get a coffee, and do some shopping.
Walk down to Rue Brochant where there are lots of fine places to eat (including Pignon and Gaston, two of the places I mentioned earlier).
You can also walk through the charming Square des Batignolles park before taking Rue Legendre over the train tracks across to the west-hand side of the neighborhood (or in the opposite direction, if you start in the other section!)
The west-hand side of the neighborhood is absolutely crammed with small eateries. And most of this is concentrated on one street, Rue de Lévis, a prototypical foodie street in Paris.
It’s a narrow, pedestrian street loaded with gourmet shops, with fresh fruit and fish stands pouring out onto the street. There aren’t too many of these incredible types of streets in Paris, and I was surprised to come across this one way out in the 17th district! Spend some time here.
Finally, you can head down Rue des Dames, another beautiful street, more quiet and charming than Rue de Lévis.
Check out the Passage Geffroy-Didelot which is right off Rue des Dames. It’s a narrow cobbled passageway with a lot of stores and fancy restaurants. I’ve never this street so busy but I imagine it would be very nice on a summer evening. Check it out and leave a comment to let me know how it is!
